Home / Services / Garbage disposal replacement

Garbage Disposal Repair & Replacement in Los Angeles and Orange County

A disposal that hums, leaks or won’t start isn’t always finished. Target Plumbers clears jams, fixes leaks at the sink flange and dishwasher hose, and when the unit itself has failed, installs a new disposal sized to your kitchen, with the dishwasher connected the way California code requires.

Plumber wearing a tool belt and work gloves against a blue background

Disposal stopped? Try this before you call

Turn the wall switch off first, and keep your hand out of the grinding chamber.

  1. It hums but doesn’t turn: something is wedged between the plate and the ring. Fit the hex wrench that came with the unit into the socket in the center of the bottom and work it back and forth until it turns freely. Lift out the object with tongs.
  2. It’s silent: press the red reset button on the bottom of the unit. If nothing happens, check the breaker and, on a plug-in unit, that it’s still plugged in under the sink.
  3. It trips again right away, or leaks from the bottom: stop there. That points to a failed motor or seal, and the unit needs a visit.

Signs of a slab leak, and what they suggest

What you see or hear Usual cause Repair or replace?
Hums, won’t spin Jammed flywheel, or a motor that’s seizing Repair if it frees up and runs; replace if it jams again on normal use
Completely silent Tripped reset, breaker or bad switch; a dead motor if those are fine Repair the power side; replace if the motor is dead
Leak at the top, under the sink rim Sink flange seal or mounting ring has loosened Repair: reseal and remount
Leak at the side Dishwasher hose clamp or the discharge pipe gasket Repair: new clamp or gasket
Leak from the bottom of the unit Internal seal has failed and water is getting into the housing Replace: this one can’t be resealed
Grinds slowly or sends food back up Worn grinding parts, an undersized unit, or a clog past the trap Replace if the unit is worn; clear the line if it’s a clog
Loud metallic rattle Spoon, bottle cap or bone in the chamber Repair: remove it and check for damage

Choosing the right replacement

Motor size Fits
1/3 HP Light use: one or two people, mostly plate scrapings
1/2 HP Most family kitchens
3/4 HP Daily cooking, fibrous peels, larger households
1 HP Heavy use; quieter, fine grind

Continuous feed or batch feed? A continuous-feed unit runs from a wall switch or a countertop air button while you feed scraps in. A batch-feed unit only runs with its stopper in place, so nothing can drop in while it’s spinning.

Plan the countertop holes. A countertop air button and the dishwasher air gap each need a hole in the sink deck or counter, next to the faucet and any sprayer or soap pump. We check what’s free before we suggest either.

The dishwasher connection California checks

If your dishwasher drains through the disposal, two details decide whether it works and passes inspection:

  • An air gap on the counter. The California Plumbing Code (section 807.3) doesn’t allow a home dishwasher to connect to the drain or a disposal without an approved dishwasher air gap fitting on its discharge side, set with its flood-level mark at or above the sink’s flood level. That’s the small chrome cap beside the faucet. It stops dirty sink water from siphoning back into the dishwasher.
  • The knock-out plug. New disposals ship with the dishwasher inlet sealed by a plastic plug. If nobody knocks it out during the install, the dishwasher can’t drain and fills with dirty water. We remove it and test a full dishwasher drain before we leave.

What a replacement visit includes

  1. Confirm the old unit has failed and isn’t just jammed or tripped.
  2. Check the electrical side: plug-in cord or hard-wired, and a working switch or air button
  3. Remove the old disposal and clean the sink opening.
  4. Set a new sink flange and mounting ring so the top seal is fresh.
  5. Mount the new unit, connect the discharge pipe and trap, and knock out the dishwasher plug if one is connected.
  6. Run water and the disposal, check every joint for drips, then run the dishwasher’s drain cycle.
  7. Show you the reset button and hex socket, and take the old unit away.

What not to put down it

LA County’s sewer program warns that fats, oils and grease harden in sewer lines, restrict flow and lead to sewage overflows, and it advises keeping food scraps out of the sink altogether (LA County CleanLA: Fats, Oils and Grease). For your own pipes and disposal:

  • Never: cooking grease or oil, which belongs in a lidded container in the trash
  • Avoid: coffee grounds, eggshells, pasta and rice, which pack into the trap; celery, corn husks and other stringy peels, which wrap the plate
  • Keep out: bones, fruit pits, glass, metal and anything that isn’t food
  • Do: run cold water before, during and for a few seconds after grinding

What affects the price

  • Motor size and brand of the new unit
  • Plug-in or hard-wired, and whether a switch or air button is added
  • Same mount as the old unit, or a new flange and mounting ring
  • Dishwasher hookup, and adding an air gap if the kitchen doesn’t have one
  • Rusted drain parts or a trap that needs replacing

Replacing the disposal along with a sink or faucet? The 0% financing covers the whole job, subject to approval.

Garbage disposal questions

How much does it cost to replace a garbage disposal?

The new unit is the main cost, and motor size drives it. Labor goes up for a hard-wired unit, a new dishwasher hookup or air gap, or corroded drain parts that have to be replaced at the same time. We quote the unit and labor together before starting.

Jams, a tripped reset, a loose flange or a leaking dishwasher hose are quick repairs. A unit leaking from the bottom, or one with a motor that keeps seizing, needs replacing, because the internal parts aren’t sold or worth swapping.

Water coming out of the bottom of the housing means the internal seal has failed. It can’t be fixed from outside, so the unit has to be replaced. Leaks at the top or side usually are fixable: a loose sink flange, a dishwasher hose clamp or a drain gasket.

It depends on the motor size and how hard the kitchen uses it. Units that grind bones, peels and grounds every day wear out sooner.

For most households a 1/2 HP unit is enough. Choose 3/4 HP or larger if you cook every day or grind tougher scraps, and 1/3 HP only for light use.

Yes. California Plumbing Code section 807.3 requires an approved dishwasher air gap fitting on the dishwasher’s discharge before it connects to the drain or a disposal. We add one if your kitchen doesn’t have it.

A straight swap of a plug-in unit is a common DIY job. The usual trouble spots are the sink flange seal, the dishwasher knock-out plug and the drain alignment, and any hard-wired electrical work. We handle all of it in one visit.

No. Grease cools and sticks inside the trap and the sewer line, even with hot water running. Pour it into a lidded container and put it in the trash.

Related kitchen plumbing

Nearest office to your kitchen

Call (844) 941-2727 to book; a plumber from one of these six offices comes out:

  • Huntington Beach — 16787 Beach Blvd, Huntington Beach, CA 92647 · (714) 930-2196
  • Santa Ana — 2041 N Main St, Santa Ana, CA 92706 · (714) 386-1775
  • Anaheim — 1110 E Orangefair Ln, Anaheim, CA 92801 · (714) 559-3502
  • Long Beach — 4400 E 4th St, Long Beach, CA 90814 · (562) 242-3929
  • Santa Monica — 1053 18th St #755, Santa Monica, CA 90403 · (310) 388-3824
  • Artesia — 18128 Pioneer Blvd #648, Artesia, CA 90701 · (562) 414-4415

Book a disposal repair or install

Tell us what the disposal is doing (humming, silent, leaking, slow) and whether a dishwasher drains into it. We’ll call back with a time.