Cold showers, a puddle under the tank, or a 15-year-old heater you’d rather replace before it fails? From Santa Monica to Huntington Beach, Target Plumbers fixes the heater you have or puts in a new tank, tankless or gas or electric unit. We size the unit to your household, strap and vent it to California code, and quote the full installed price before the old heater comes out.
| Type | Good fit when | What the install involves |
|---|---|---|
| Gas tank | You want the lowest upfront cost and already have a gas heater | Usually a direct swap: same gas line and vent, new straps and connectors |
| Electric tank | There’s no gas line, or the heater sits where venting is hard | Correct breaker and wiring for the new element rating |
| Gas tankless | You want endless hot water and the floor space back | Often a larger gas line, new venting and a condensate drain on condensing models |
| Electric tankless | Small household or a point-of-use need, like an ADU | A high-amperage circuit; panel capacity must be checked first |
| Heat pump | You want the lowest running cost and have room around the unit | A dedicated circuit, air space around the heater and a condensate line |
Not sure? We price the two most sensible options side by side.
| People in the home | Typical tank size | Tankless alternative |
|---|---|---|
| 1–2 | 30–40 gallons | A unit sized for two fixtures running at once |
| 3–4 | 40–50 gallons | A unit sized for a shower plus a dishwasher or washer |
| 5 or more | 50–75+ gallons | A higher-flow unit, or two units |
These are starting points. We confirm the size by counting bathrooms, fixtures and peak use, so you don’t pay for capacity you won’t use or run out mid-shower.
| Symptom | Common cause | Usually |
|---|---|---|
| No hot water on a gas unit | Pilot, thermocouple or igniter | Repair |
| No hot water on an electric unit | Tripped breaker, failed element or thermostat | Repair |
| Hot water runs out quickly | Sediment, a failed lower element, or a tank too small for the household | Repair or flush; replace if undersized |
| Popping or rumbling | Sediment cooking on the bottom of the tank | Flush; replace if it returns on an older tank |
| Rusty hot water | Spent anode rod, or the tank itself corroding | Anode replacement if caught early; otherwise replace |
| Water leaking from the tank body | Tank wall has failed | Replace (a tank can’t be patched) |
| Leak at a fitting or the relief valve | Loose connection, faulty valve or high pressure | Repair |
Older tank and an expensive part? Replacement is often the better spend. When both options are realistic, you get both prices.
For burst pipes and other after-hours problems, see 24/7 emergency plumbing.
State law requires every new or replacement water heater to be “braced, anchored, or strapped to resist falling or horizontal displacement due to earthquake motion” (California Health & Safety Code §19211). Most cities also require a plumbing permit for a replacement. In the City of Los Angeles, LADBS waives the permit only for a like-for-like gas heater swap by a Certified Licensed Contractor. Our installs cover:
Gas heaters near a gas meter also make a good moment to add an earthquake gas shut-off valve.
A straight tank swap typically takes 2–4 hours. Tankless conversions take longer when gas, venting or electrical work is needed.
A failed heater rarely arrives at a good time, so replacements can be financed: 0% interest for as long as 48 months, subject to credit approval.
A like-for-like tank swap is the least expensive job. Switching to tankless costs more because it often adds gas-line, venting or electrical work. We quote the full installed price, including code items and haul-away, before we start.
In most cities, yes. Los Angeles waives it only when an LADBS Certified Licensed Contractor swaps a gas heater for one of the same capacity. We take care of the permit and inspection.
About 2–4 hours for a standard tank replacement. A conversion from tank to tankless can take a full day or more, depending on the gas, venting and electrical changes.
It’s not worth the risk. Gas connections, venting, relief-valve piping and seismic strapping all have to meet the California Plumbing Code, and a bad install can leak, back-draft carbon monoxide or fail inspection.
It pays off when you want hot water that doesn’t run out, need the floor space, or plan to stay in the home for years. If your gas line or venting needs upgrades, a high-efficiency tank can be the better value, and we’ll show you both numbers.
Sediment has settled on the bottom of the tank and water trapped under it is boiling through. A flush often helps; on an older tank, it’s an early sign that replacement is coming.
A leak from a fitting, valve or drain valve can be fixed. A leak from the tank itself means the tank has corroded through, and the heater has to be replaced.
Usually, when the right unit is in stock. Call (844) 941-2727, day or night, if you’re without hot water or the tank is leaking.
Installs and repairs are scheduled from the office closest to your home. Find yours below:
No hot water tonight? Call (844) 941-2727 any time. Planning a replacement or a tankless upgrade? Fill in the form with your current heater’s size and fuel and we’ll call you with options.